Chelsea Green Publishing

Chelsea Green Blog

Recipe: Winter Root Veggie Potpie

If you have a winter CSA share, then you’re probably poking around for some new ways to use up those winter root veggies.

Straight from his cookbook Black Trumpet, Chef Evan Mallett suggests this Winter Root Veggie Potpie. And, we couldn’t agree more.

This recipe is just a small selection of the more than 250 innovative recipes that respect and transcend regional food traditions, and which Mallett has tested either in his own kitchen or at the restaurant that inspired the name of his book – Black Trumpet in Portsmouth, NH.

The basis of great cooking has always been the creative use of fresh, seasonal ingredients – whether the kitchen is at home or in a high-end restaurant. At Mallett’s renowned Black Trumpet restaurant, he and his staff reflect the constantly changing seasons of New England, celebrating the unique flavors and traditions of fished, farmed, and foraged foods in their ever-changing menus that rotate roughly every six weeks throughout the course of the year.

If you want to learn more about Mallett, and his approach to cooking and seasonality, check out this in-depth Q&A.

When I was born, my mother was told by her appropriately named pediatrician, Dr. Kinder, that she should feed me a different color Gerber vegetable for every meal. Taking his word as gospel, she lived by this doctrine, and later swore to me that my love of vegetables and curiosity about food began then. I guess we could all adopt Dr. Kinder’s words in our diet, making ours a Kinder, gentler, healthier nation.

This recipe uses many of the rainbow’s colors. Dr. Kinder and my mother would certainly approve.

Note that this recipe calls for up to ten individual tart pans. Many cooks will prefer to make one large pot pie with this recipe and serve sloppy slices instead of individual pies. That is absolutely okay, just a bit messier.

Makes 10 eight-ounce (225 g) individual pies

For the brisée dough

12 ounces (340 g) all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup (225 g) cold, unsalted butter, cut into 12 pieces

½ cup (120 ml) ice water

For the potpie

1 cup (225 g) dried chickpeas,
soaked overnight in double the
volume of water

¾ cup (170 g) unsalted butter, divided

1 medium-sized celery root (about 1 pound [455 g]), peeled and diced into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces

4 Red Bliss potatoes, scrubbed and cut into eighths (1-inch [2.5 cm] pieces)

1 cup (200 g) pearl onions, peeled

3 medium carrots, cut into obliques (quarter turns on the bias, ½ inch
[1 cm] thick)

3 baby white turnips, quartered

1 pound parsnips, cut into obliques (quarter turns on the bias, ½ inch
[1 cm] thick)

1 bulb fennel, halved, cores removed from each half, sliced ½ inch
(1 cm) thick

8 ounces (225 g) parsley root (optional)

1 cup (120 g) all-purpose flour

1½ quarts (1.4 L) vegetable stock

1 tablespoon chopped fresh
winter savory

1½ teaspoons ground coriander

½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 tablespoon salt

¼ teaspoon black pepper

1 sweet potato (about 1 pound [455 g]), peeled, quartered lengthwise, and chopped into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces

8 ounces fresh black trumpet mushrooms

⅓ cup (85 g) raisins, soaked in ½ cup (120 ml) orange juice for 30 minutes

For the final baking step

1 egg (50 g liquid egg)

2 tablespoons milk


Make the brisée dough

In a food processor, pulse the flour and salt three to four times. Add the butter and pulse ten times, counting 1 to 2 seconds per pulse. With the motor running, add the ice water in a slow drizzle. Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface and, handling it as little as possible, mound into a disk, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to a few days.

Make the potpie

In a large pot, add the chickpeas and four times the volume of cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook until al dente.

Melt ¼ cup (55 g) of the butter in a medium round high-sided sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the next eight ingredients including the optional parsley root, if you like, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the veggies begin to turn golden brown, about 10 minutes. Remove the veggies, melt the remaining ½ cup (115 g) butter in the pan, and whisk in the flour, creating a roux. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Add the stock and the next six ingredients, stirring occasionally, until the mixture thickens slightly, about 7 minutes. Add the browned vegetables, sweet potato, and black trumpets, and simmer until fork-tender, about 25 minutes. Add the chickpeas and raisins and simmer 10 minutes to allow the flavors to develop.

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C) and allow the dough to sit at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes. Place 1 cup (235 ml) filling in ten 8- to 10-ounce (225 to 280 g) individual baking dishes or ramekins. Divide the dough into ten 1½-ounce (42 g) balls. Roll out each dough ball to ¼ inch (0.5 cm) thick and cut with a 4-inch (10 cm) biscuit cutter. Lay the pastry rounds over the top of the filling, tucking the ends into the baking dish. Whisk the egg and milk together in a small bowl and brush the top of the dough with the mixture. Score the crust with three slashes and place the baking dishes on a baking sheet. Slide into the oven and bake until the top is golden brown and the filling is bubbly, about 20 minutes. Let cool for about 10 minutes and serve.



Books to Curl up with this Winter!

William Wordsworth was right when he said, “Nature never did betray the heart that loved her.” Nevertheless, the cold, dark days of winter can still get the best of even Nature’s most tenderhearted admirer. What’s one to do? We here at Chelsea Green have concocted the perfect cabin fever remedy with our suggested winter reading […] Read More

3 Steps to Start Your Plants Off Right

How you handle your seeds and your practices around seeding is your first chance to get your plants off to a good start and help them achieve their full potential. Ben and Penny Hewitt, authors of The Nourishing Homestead, have developed a three-step process which starts with inoculating the seeds, then sowing them in high-quality […] Read More

Pass the Walnut Syrup?

Everyone knows and loves maple syrup, and in some states (like Chelsea Green’s home state of Vermont), it’s big business. However, it’s a widespread myth that maples are the only trees that can be tapped to produce sap, according to Michael Farrell, sugarmaker and director of Cornell University’s Uihlein Forest. Sap can also be collected […] Read More

This cake is so simple and yet so good: Medlar Cream Cake

If you’re looking for a simple cake to serve guests, try this medlar cream cake. What’s a medlar? The fruit of the medlar tree, Mespilus germanica, tastes like lightly spiced apple butter scooped soft right out of the russeted skin. The Occidental Arts and Ecology Center in California has a small but significant collection of […] Read More

Grow a Year-Round Indoor Salad Garden, even in winter

Just because the temperatures have started to drop doesn’t mean you have to live without fresh greens until Spring. As the weather gets colder and seasonal produce only means root vegetables, we begin to dream about fresh greens and colorful salads. Without a greenhouse or expensive equipment, it’s hard to imagine a reality in which […] Read More