Chelsea Green Publishing

Mastering Stocks and Broths

Pages:464 pages
Size: 7 x 9 inch
Publisher:Chelsea Green Publishing
Hardcover: 9781603586566
Pub. Date June 21, 2017

Mastering Stocks and Broths

A Comprehensive Culinary Approach Using Traditional Techniques and No-Waste Methods

By Rachael Mamane
Foreword by Adam Danforth

Categories:
Food & Drink

Availability: In Stock

Hardcover

Available Date:
June 21, 2017

$35.00

Stocks and broths are the foundation of good cooking, yet information on their use is often relegated to the introductions or appendices of cookbooks. Until now there has not been a comprehensive culinary guide to stocks in the canon, save for snippets here and there. Hard to believe, since most passionate home cooks and professional chefs know that using stocks and broths—both on their own and as the base for a recipe—can turn a moderately flavorful dish into a masterpiece. Mastering Stocks and Broths is the comprehensive guide to culinary stocks and broths that passionate home cooks and innovative chefs have all been waiting for.

Rachael Mamane, a self-taught cook and owner of small-scale broth company Brooklyn Bouillon, is reminiscent of M. F. K. Fisher, Patience Gray, and Julia Child. She takes us on a culinary journey into the science behind fundamental stocks and the truth about well-crafted bone broths, and offers over 100 complex and unique recipes incorporating stocks as foundational ingredients. Mastering Stocks and Broths includes a historical culinary narrative about stocks in the classic French technique as well as through the lens of other cultures around the world. Readers will learn about the importance of quality sourcing, the practical and health benefits of stocks and broths, and detailed methodology on how to develop, store, and use them in a home kitchen.

The recipes place a playful emphasis on the value of zero waste, turning spent bones, produce seconds, and leftover animal fats into practical products to use around the home. Readers will turn to this book when they find themselves wondering what to do with the carcass of a store-bought roast chicken and they want to learn how to make every inch of their vegetables go further.

Perhaps most important to remember: a good stock takes time. This is part of the pleasure—making stocks is meditative and meaningful, if you allow yourself the occasion. Building a stock often happens in the background of most kitchens—a smell that permeates a residence, a gentle warmth that radiates from the kitchen. Readers will be inspired by Mamane’s approach to truly slow cookery and her effervescent love for food itself.

REVIEWS AND PRAISE

Booklist–

"Mamane’s exhaustive guide to understanding and preparing stocks and broths aims to be the definitive modern guide to the subject. Mamane illuminates the science, history, and cultural anthropology of this all-important culinary foundation, in addition providing step-by-step instructions. As chef and owner of Brooklyn Bouillon, she is an authority on the challenges and importance of sourcing high-quality ingredients and speaks with abundant first-hand experience about its benefits, from animal welfare to the environment to the cooking pot. The book’s first half covers those major principles, then offers specific methods to produce a variety of meat, poultry, seafood, and vegetable stocks and broths. Each is followed by distinctive recipes that rely on the slow-simmered brews and their byproducts, such as veal marrow dumpling soup, requiring the marrow as well as veal stock and chicken stock, or clams in saffron emulsion, which uses shellfish, stock, clam liquor, and whey. Mamane even includes directions to up-cycle leftover fats and bones into cosmetics, fertilizer, and other home products. A full-throated ode to slow food cooking and a zero-waste ethos.”

“If you have ever tried to imagine the most definitive encyclopedia on stocks, sauces, and broths, here it is. Mastering Stocks and Broths is wildly practical and comprehensive. Everyone who aspires to see health germinate from their kitchen needs to follow Mamane’s lead. I can’t imagine a single question unanswered in this marvelous book.”—Joel Salatin, Polyface Farm; author of You Can Farm

Mastering Stocks and Broths is the most thorough book on the subject I’ve come across. Rachael Mamane’s writing is as beautiful, thoughtful, and caring as her approach to food, the table, and her stocks. And I love the intriguing recipes that she has interspersed throughout the book. If one really used this book, one would emerge a truly excellent cook and, I dare say, person. Here is to deep passion and thoroughness. Kudos!”—Deborah Madison, author of Vegetable Literacy and In My Kitchen

“Equal parts inspiration and encyclopedia, this fabulous book will be reached for again and again. It truly does contain everything you need to know to let broths and stocks enrich your kitchen with nutrition, flavor, and depth. Mamane’s recipes are truly irresistible, and the science and history she weaves throughout add multilayered meanings to the guidance she provides, inviting you on an adventure with each dish she offers.”—Jessica Prentice, author of Full Moon Feast; cofounder, Three Stone Hearth 

“Rachael Mamane takes stock making to a whole new level in Mastering Stocks and Broths, from making a basic stock to the many ways of thickening and flavoring this fundamental ingredient into delicious sauces, gravies, soups, and stews. This book deserves a place in the kitchen of all serious—and not so serious—cooks.”—Sally Fallon Morell, president, The Weston A. Price Foundation

“It’s always been my preference to surround myself with people who are willing to go deep. I’m not really interested in making time for anyone else. By deep, I mean people who work and study hard, people who aren’t afraid to ask questions, people whose enthusiasm for experimentation never wavers, people who, above all else, are willing to sacrifice for the sweet pleasure of slowly obtained mastery. I especially like to read books written by those people. Rachael Mamane is one of those people. In this remarkable tome, she manages to write about bones and broth and stock on four very different levels at once: the spiritual, the symbolic, the technical, and the practical. Maybe I should throw in the political, too. Read this book. Like Rachael’s stocks and broths, it will heal you. It will also bring you into the deep.”—Camas Davis, butcher; writer; owner, Portland Meat Collective

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Rachael Mamane

Rachael Mamane is the chef and owner of Brooklyn Bouillon, a value-added product company that explores ways to minimize agricultural food waste while providing a staple product to home cooks across New York State. Her work in reducing consumptive waste streams has been featured by the New York Times, Modern Farmer, The Splendid Table, and Food Curated. Her project participation with Feeding the 5000 was supported by the United Nations Environmental Program. She has exhibited at Harvard Law School and participated in early food incubators at Stanford University and Babson College. She is unafraid to spend nights with slow-roasting animals and is genuinely excited about eating carrot tops.

AUTHOR VIDEOS

Food Curated: Brooklyn Bouillon

Rachael Mamane's company Brooklyn Bouillon is featured in this Food Curated Video

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE

Cheesemonger

Cheesemonger

By Gordon Edgar

Witty and irreverent, informative and provocative, Cheesemonger: A Life on the Wedge is the highly readable story of Gordon Edgar's unlikely career as a cheesemonger at San Francisco's worker-owned Rainbow Grocery Cooperative. A former punk-rock political activist, Edgar bluffed his way into his cheese job knowing almost nothing, but quickly discovered a whole world of amazing artisan cheeses. There he developed a deep understanding and respect for the styles, producers, animals, and techniques that go into making great cheese.

With a refreshingly unpretentious sensibility, Edgar intertwines his own life story with his ongoing love affair with cheese, and offers readers an unflinching, highly entertaining on-the-ground look at America's growing cheese movement. From problem customers to animal rights, business ethics to taste epiphanies, this book offers something for everyone, including cheese profiles and recommendations for selecting the very best-not just the most expensive-cheeses from the United States and around the world and a look at the struggles dairy farmers face in their attempts to stay on and make their living from the land.

Edgar-a smart, progressive cheese man with an activist's edge-enlightens and delights with his view of the world from behind the cheese counter and his appreciation for the skill and tradition that go into a good wedge of Morbier.

Cheesemonger is the first book of its kind-a cheese memoir with attitude and information that will appeal to everyone from serious foodies to urban food activists.

Available in: Paperback

Read More

Cheesemonger

Gordon Edgar

Paperback $17.95

Make Mead Like a Viking

Make Mead Like a Viking

By Jereme Zimmerman

Mead. Vikings. It’s impossible to think of one without the other. So why try? In Make Mead Like a Viking, Jereme Zimmerman unlocks the brewing secrets of the ancient Norse and shows readers how homebrewing mead can be not only simple but fun.

As a homesteader, fermentation enthusiast, and self-described “Appalachian Yeti Viking,” Zimmerman embraces the traditional culture and rituals surrounding mead and will help others bring a sense of wildness, mysticism, and individuality to their home-crafted brews.

In this accessible, easy-to-follow guide, readers will learn how to brew their own drinks such as sweet, semi-sweet, and dry meads; melomels (fruit meads); metheglins (spiced meads); Ethiopian t’ej; honey beers; and grog—opening the Mead Hall doors to further experimentation in fermentation and flavor. In addition, aspiring Viking brewers will explore:

  • The importance of local and unpasteurized honey for both flavor and health benefits
  • Why modern homebrewing practices, materials, and chemicals work but aren’t necessary
  • Herbs and wild botanicals for use in flavoring and preserving these healing, nutritious, and magical meads, beers, and wines
  • Recommendations for starting a mead circle to share your wild meads with other brewers as part of the growing wild mead subculture
  • and more

Whether you’ve been intimidated by modern homebrewing’s cost or seeming complexity in the past or are looking to expand your current brewing and fermentation practices, Zimmerman’s welcoming style and spirit will usher you into exciting new territory. Grounded in history and mythology but focused on modern self-sufficiency, Make Mead Like a Viking is a practical and entertaining guide for the ages.

Skål!

Available in: Paperback

Read More

Make Mead Like a Viking

Jereme Zimmerman

Paperback $24.95

Defending Beef

Defending Beef

By Nicolette Hahn Niman

For decades it has been nearly universal dogma among environmentalists and health advocates that cattle and beef are public enemy number one.

But is the matter really so clear cut? Hardly, argues environmental lawyer turned rancher Nicolette Hahn Niman in her new book, Defending Beef.

The public has long been led to believe that livestock, especially cattle, erode soils, pollute air and water, damage riparian areas, and decimate wildlife populations.

In Defending Beef, Hahn Niman argues that cattle are not inherently bad for either the Earth or our own nutritional health. In fact, properly managed livestock play an essential role in maintaining grassland ecosystems by functioning as surrogates for herds of wild ruminants that once covered the globe. Hahn Niman argues that dispersed, grass-fed, small-scale farms can and should become the basis for American food production, replacing the factory farms that harm animals and the environment.

The author—a longtime vegetarian—goes on to dispel popular myths about how eating beef is bad for our bodies. She methodically evaluates health claims made against beef, demonstrating that such claims have proven false.  She shows how foods from cattle—milk and meat, particularly when raised entirely on grass—are healthful, extremely nutritious, and an irreplaceable part of the world’s food system.

Grounded in empirical scientific data and with living examples from around the world, Defending Beef builds a comprehensive argument that cattle can help to build carbon-sequestering soils to mitigate climate change, enhance biodiversity, help prevent desertification, and provide invaluable nutrition.

Defending Beef is simultaneously a book about big ideas and the author’s own personal tale—she starts out as a skeptical vegetarian and eventually becomes an enthusiastic participant in environmentally sustainable ranching.

While no single book can definitively answer the thorny question of how to feed the Earth’s growing population, Defending Beef makes the case that, whatever the world’s future food system looks like, cattle and beef can and must be part of the solution.

Available in: Paperback

Read More

Defending Beef

Nicolette Hahn Niman

Paperback $19.95

Black Trumpet

Black Trumpet

By Evan Mallett

Featuring more than 250 innovative recipes that respect and transcend regional food traditions.

The basis of great cooking has always been the creative use of fresh, seasonal ingredients – whether the kitchen is at home or in a high-end restaurant.

At the renowned Black Trumpet restaurant, located in the historic seacoast city of Portsmouth, New Hampshire, Chef Evan Mallett and his staff reflect the constantly changing seasons of New England, celebrating the unique flavors and traditions of fished, farmed, and foraged foods in their ever-changing menus that rotate roughly every six weeks throughout the course of the year.

From deep winter’s comfort dishes to the first run of maple syrup during Mud Season; from the first flush of greens in early spring to the embarrassment of high summer’s bounty and fall’s final harvest—Evan Mallett offers more than 250 innovative recipes that draw not only on classic regional foodways, but on the author’s personal experiences with Mexican, Mediterranean, and other classic world cuisines. Recipes include inspired and delicious dishes such as:

  • Quail Adobado with Quince Hash;
  • Scallops with Couscous and Cider Cream;
  • Lobster and Kelp Tamales; and
  • Cauliflower and Chickpea Fritter with Curried Spinach Puree; as well as a wide range of soups, salads, starters, condiments, desserts, and cocktails.

Black Trumpet not only tells the story of a great restaurant—how the Black Trumpet became nationally famous as a model for local food sourcing and community involvement—but it also traces the growth and evolution of the local food movement. In some ways, it can be viewed as a how-to manual for building a community around good food, featuring not only creative and delicious recipes, but autobiographical vignettes, and sidebars containing technical how-to information, profiles, anecdotes, and essays.

In this cookbook, the trappings of technology are eschewed, and the bare-bones essentials of extracting flavor and combining both commonplace and unusual ingredients take center stage. Genuine flavor and hospitality are what set Black Trumpet apart, and this cookbook will reflect those special qualities and inspire a new generation of adventurous American cooks.

Available in: Hardcover

Read More

Black Trumpet

Evan Mallett

Hardcover $40.00