Don’t Be an Energy Glutton: How to Wash and Dry Your Clothes Efficiently

Posted on Sunday, March 22nd, 2009 at 1:19 pm by dpacheco

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The following is an excerpt from The Carbon-Free Home: 36 Remodeling Projects to Help Kick the Fossil-Fuel Habit by Stephen and Rebekah Hren. It has been adapted for the Web.

The first wave of appliances were created to do jobs that people didn’t want to do or didn’t have the time to do. These are the laborsaving appliances such as washing machines.

You’re probably wondering what you can do with your appliances to wring more work from them for less pay, so you can start saving up and get some cool solar electric panels on your roof. This is a brief discussion of a few of the household “necessities.”

Clothes Washing

The majority of energy used in washing clothes, up to 90 percent, goes to heating the water that is used. Since front-loading machines use much less (about a quarter) hot water than top-loaders use, they save a great deal of energy. But there’s more. All washing machines wash by agitation, but not all agitation is the same. Front-loaders can easily produce agitation by spinning the clothes up so that they then fall down again. Toploaders require a much more complicated system of forward and backward motion that is not only much harder on your clothing but also uses more energy and is more prone to breaking down. Furthermore, toploaders are incapable of spinning as much water out during the final spin as front-loaders, meaning your clothing requires much longer drying times. If you then stick that wet clothing in an electric-resistance heat-powered dryer, it’s all over. You’re an energy glutton, no two ways about it.

So, do the deficiencies of the top-loader qualify it for immediate replacement? In some ways, it depends on how often you use it and how you use it. If you’re using cold water to wash your clothes, then it’s probably not that big of a deal. As high-quality new front-loaders can cost more than $600, you might want to put off purchasing one as long as possible. However, if you find it necessary to use warm or hot water to wash your clothes, and especially if you ever have to use a dryer, then the priority level goes up a few notches. We’ve found that clothing from our front-loader comes out cleaner than that washed in our old top-loader, without the need for using warm water very often (in the summertime our solar water heater provides a surplus, so we use hot water to wash clothes). Either way, the improvement is quite substantial, and we would put replacement of top-loaders high up on the priority list. Look at the energy labels when you shop for a front-loader to find the most efficient models, check the Energy Star Web site for ratings, and don’t forget that washers have different cubic-foot capacities.

Are there options for washing clothes without using electricity at all? Yes, because folks had been looking to take some of the chore out of clothes washing for quite some time before electricity came on the scene. There’s the old-fashioned washboard, of course, although its relegation to musical instrument is not without good reason. Scrubbing on one of these things is a serious workout! Using a laundry plunger is a much more effective option for general agitation. This is a great, time-honored method of washing clothes. Presoaking for several hours in warm soapy water in a large (at least 10-gallon) tub is fundamental to this washing method. The clothes are then plunged until clean. A washboard can be used for especially dirty clothing, and a wringer can be used to squeeze out most of the water. Generally, this is an inefficient method for washing clothes because it can require lots of hot water. If the hot water is solar heated (in a black basin in the sun, for instance), then this is not an issue.

For those looking for an easier, albeit more expensive (around $600 with wringer), nonelectric option, the James Washer has been around for a century and works well. It’s basically a tub with a built-in agitator that is cranked back and forth by means of a handle that sticks out from it. We’ve never had a chance to use one, but they look like fun. Most come with a clothes wringer for faster drying.

Clothes Dryers

Electric clothes dryers are a colossal waste of energy. They often draw around 6,000 watts. Six thousand! This is more than a typical heat pump or electric water heater, usually thought of as the hogs of the household. Simply put, you should not use this appliance. Gas dryers are more efficient because they use no electric- resistance heat, but they still can draw around 720 watts. That’s a lot, equivalent to about 60 compact fluorescents (not to mention the energy of the gas). You should plan on getting rid of electric heat dryers and hopefully gas-fired dryers as well if your climate allows.

Solar clothes drying shows this energy source at its finest. It’s a great example of simplicity combined with effectiveness. Hang up something wet in the sun, come back in a few hours, and, voilà, it’s dry, clean, and freshsmelling. Like everything, having the proper tools to access this resource goes a very long way in making sure it’s effective and easy to do. Some of this depends on your climate and your own personal habits. We realize some parts of the country have very little sun in the winter, but if you set aside a bit of room, even in a closet or spare bedroom, clothes hung on racks inside will dry fairly quickly in a heated house.

Some or all of the following will make air-drying clothes much more effective and much less of a chore.

Retractable clothesline. An excellent tool for the space-constrained. These come in a variety of lengths and are very simple to install indoors or out. Consider putting these inside near a passive solar wall. The sun will dry the clothes and raise the humidity of the room in wintertime, making it more comfortable inside.

Indoor drying rack. Avoid the cheaper models, as they can fall apart rather quickly. These are generally collapsible and can stand alone or be wall-mounted. We recommend having at least two. Being able to place these in the sun or near a woodstove will greatly speed up drying time in the winter.

Outdoor drying rack. If you’ve got the room outdoors, a permanent outdoor rack is a very effective method for drying clothes, even when the temperatures barely get above freezing. It requires some time to mount properly, but it should function well for decades.

Clothespins. These are a necessity and come in two varieties: split or spring. Determine your preference and make sure you have plenty. Hanging clothes from pins rather than folding them over the line greatly speeds drying time and greatly reduces the odds that any clothing will fall off and get dirty. Folding clothes generally means two sides of the clothing are not exposed to the air at all. This more than doubles drying times.

Clothespin apron. Using an apron will greatly facilitate hanging up your clothes and make it much less likely you leave the pins on the line to suffer in the elements, thereby greatly decreasing their life span.

Laundry baskets. You need at least two heavy-duty laundry baskets, if you don’t already have them. This makes taking clothing to the drying line or rack much easier.

Please, do not skimp on these items. Doing so will only discourage you and before you know it you’ll be pining for a fossil-fuel dryer, rather than enjoying your fresh-smelling solar-dried clothes. A complete drying system, including retractable clotheslines, pins, baskets, and indoor racks, should set you back only about a hundred dollars or so. After that, the solar energy is there for the taking!

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9 Responses to “Don’t Be an Energy Glutton: How to Wash and Dry Your Clothes Efficiently”

  1. garlicpesto Says:

    It’s true that the “solar dryer” is the most energy efficient. Next in line is a condensing dryer, which reuses the heat it creates and does not need to be vented. Venting of conventional dryers is a necessary evil that increases energy losses by expelling large amounts of conditioned air from your house. And, contrary to the statement in this article, gas dryers are not more efficient than electric dryers. They merely use a different, sometimes less expensive, fuel to do the same job using the same amount of energy.

  2. dissemin8or Says:

    Not all top-loading washers are created equally. We have the Fisher-Paykel eco washer ($550-600) which outperforms all but the best front-loaders in terms of water and electricity use.

    One thing that anyone with a washing machine can do to reduce their energy consumption is to set all rinse cycles to cold water. There is no need to use hot water once the dirt is already out of the clothes, and this is also easier on your plumbing, as dissolved chemicals in hot water are more likely to adsorb to pipes than suspended particles in cold water.

  3. Lea Esrom Says:

    I have a new “energy efficient” front loading washer. It’s don’t believe it truely is efficient. It takes 1 - 2 hrs to wash a load. I select the 2 hr cycle as my clothes have been coming out smelling like armpits and dirt is simply not removed as well as my “old and inefficient” washer. I manually add more water to “help” this situation. When it spins the water out of the clothing, it tangles the arms and legs so tightly I sometimes cannot physically get them out of the washer. When I do manage to pry and painstakingly separate the pieces I have to shake them out individually and pry the accordian like pleats out of them. THEN I CAN HANG THEM IN THE SUN TO DRY. Thank goodness for the sun! Even then the pleats remain, so if I’m fussy on some items I have to start the “electric iron”.

    I’m not known as a “negative” to most, and usually see a silver lining. But I wish I had just fixed my old washer now.

  4. LivNPees Says:

    Lea, that is interesting. I have a front loader and it saves a LOT of water, gets my clothes clean in about 30 minutes (depending on which cycle I choose) and spins them very well. It uses MUCH less soap (environmentally friendly, of course) and, when I have to bleach, it takes a tiny bit. I can’t imagine taking 2 hours to wash a load of clothes. It would be quicker with that old wringer. We evaluated the front loaders before buying and came away with the suggested brand of the Consumer Reports magazine and have been very happy.

  5. cyan_Alaskan Says:

    After years with Maytag top loaders, then a few years relying on laundromat, we finally got one of the new front-loading washers. I thought it was defective the first time we fired it up because there was so little water in the tub - just enough to keep the clothes really wet. I’ve since found the water level automatically adjusts to the load, but is always a small fraction of either top loaders or laundromat front loaders. Additional surprises: (1) about 1/4 or less of the “recommended” amount of low-sudsing detergent (already a fraction of what you use in top loader) is adequate; (2) the high speed spin (1200 rpm I think) leaves clothes damp dry so they take less time on line or in dryer; (3) the non-agitator wash is so gentle, we wash even delicate, knit and even “dry clean only” items with no ill effects; (4) clothes come very clean - better than anything I’ve previously used. This washer can take a long time to go through a cycle, particularly if you choose “pre-wash”, “extra rinse”, etc. but I don’t stand around waiting for it!

  6. Jeff Says:

    My 2 cents on air-drying… my electric dryer has been on the fritz for the last few months, and in this economy I haven’t had the spare cash on hand to fix it. Air-drying in my bathroom has been a cheap and easy alternative, but I do miss having a lint-catcher for some items, particularly my shirts. The cheap flypaper lint roller doesn’t do a good enough job, and my battery-powered lint shaver is frustrating (takes too long and flies apart too easily). So what’s a good alternative to get rid of the lint (aside from sorting 3 or 4 big loads of laundry into 10 or 12 small loads of laundry based on fabrics)?

  7. Mary Q Contrarie Says:

    I just wanted to give you kudos on some great tips. I also wanted to let everyone know that worries about hang drying clothes and softness that if you use a good fabric softener it will help your clothes stay soft during air drying.

    I have not used my dryer for a couple years. It is just the right thing to do…

  8. anne o'kane Says:

    I love the freedom the outdoor clothes line gives me, the washroom no longer full on clothes queueing to get into the tumble dryer. However I hate the way towels and jeans etc come off the line beautifully dry but horribly stiff and crinkled so I’ve devised my own compromise. I tumble dry the clothes for 10 minutes in the dryer and hang them up on the clothesline immediately, the creases are removed and the towels are softened. I know I’m not being strictly environmentally aware but it’s my step in the right direction.

  9. Cheap Washing Machines - washingmachines.mnwifi.org Says:

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