Chelsea Green Publishing

Black Trumpet

Pages:400 pages
Book Art:Color photos throughout
Size: 8 x 10 inch
Publisher:Chelsea Green Publishing
Hardcover: 9781603586504
Pub. Date October 12, 2016

Black Trumpet

A Chef’s Journey Through Eight New England Seasons

Categories:
Food & Drink

Availability: In Stock

Hardcover

Available Date:
October 12, 2016

$40.00

Featuring more than 250 innovative recipes that respect and transcend regional food traditions.

The basis of great cooking has always been the creative use of fresh, seasonal ingredients – whether the kitchen is at home or in a high-end restaurant.

At the renowned Black Trumpet restaurant, located in the historic seacoast city of Portsmouth, New Hampshire, Chef Evan Mallett and his staff reflect the constantly changing seasons of New England, celebrating the unique flavors and traditions of fished, farmed, and foraged foods in their ever-changing menus that rotate roughly every six weeks throughout the course of the year.

From deep winter’s comfort dishes to the first run of maple syrup during Mud Season; from the first flush of greens in early spring to the embarrassment of high summer’s bounty and fall’s final harvest—Evan Mallett offers more than 250 innovative recipes that draw not only on classic regional foodways, but on the author’s personal experiences with Mexican, Mediterranean, and other classic world cuisines. Recipes include inspired and delicious dishes such as:

  • Quail Adobado with Quince Hash;
  • Scallops with Couscous and Cider Cream;
  • Lobster and Kelp Tamales; and
  • Cauliflower and Chickpea Fritter with Curried Spinach Puree; as well as a wide range of soups, salads, starters, condiments, desserts, and cocktails.

Black Trumpet not only tells the story of a great restaurant—how the Black Trumpet became nationally famous as a model for local food sourcing and community involvement—but it also traces the growth and evolution of the local food movement. In some ways, it can be viewed as a how-to manual for building a community around good food, featuring not only creative and delicious recipes, but autobiographical vignettes, and sidebars containing technical how-to information, profiles, anecdotes, and essays.

In this cookbook, the trappings of technology are eschewed, and the bare-bones essentials of extracting flavor and combining both commonplace and unusual ingredients take center stage. Genuine flavor and hospitality are what set Black Trumpet apart, and this cookbook will reflect those special qualities and inspire a new generation of adventurous American cooks.

REVIEWS AND PRAISE

Shelf Awareness-

"Gourmet cooks with a passion for New England's seafood--as well as culinary memoir--will savor Black Trumpet, Chef Evan Mallett's debut collection of 250 decadent dishes created and served at his family-owned bistro and wine bar of the cookbook's name. Featuring locally sourced ingredients from Black Trumpet's setting in the seaport town of Portsmouth, N.H., Mallett's creative fare is precisely synced with New England's "eight seasons": Early Winter, Late Winter, Early Spring, Late Spring, Early Summer, Late Summer, Early Fall and Late Fall. Black Trumpet features Mallett's personal stories of becoming a chef, his passion for fresh, seasonal food and his recollections of the restaurant's compelling history in the seaport community that is both tourist destination and home.”

“With this book, I feel as if I’m right in the restaurant being happily taken care of by a devoted staff while Chef Evan whips up something delicious, local, sustainable, seasonable, with a touch of the exotic—all the things I need to delight my palate.”--Nancy Harmon Jenkins, author of The Four Seasons of Pasta

Publishers Weekly-

"Mallett and his crew weren’t quite sure who they wanted to be when they opened Black Trumpet in Portsmouth, N.H., in the spring of 2007. Today, they’re the embodiment of the locally sourced movement, working with local farmers to craft terrific cuisine that speaks to the region and its history. Mallett shares over 250 recipes that make the most of New England’s offerings, including chestnut butter and fig jam finger sandwiches, cider-braised pork osso bucco, and pork schnitzel with pretzel spätzle. The must-try snacks include pan-fried smelts with Meyer lemon and caper aioli, ceviche with pico de gallo, and the beautifully simple Chile Pasta, a from-scratch pasta dough that incorporates a trio of chilies to add smoke and warmth. The majority of the book’s dishes are probably best ordered at the restaurant itself: potted fava bean pâté with rhubarb gelée, saffron pickled quail egg with serrano ham and aioli in a phyllo nest, and fried rabbit loin with cheesy polenta pudding and rhubarb salsa call for more time than readers may have for dinner. Still, readers [are] sure to find some great ideas and techniques.”

Booklist-

"Portsmouth, New Hampshire’s Black Trumpet is, according to one Boston Globe review, 'the kind of place where diners are apt to travel farther to get there than the ingredients do' Which speaks well of owner-chef Mallett’s mantra of sustainability and the quality of food his kitchen produces. Mallett arranges these hundreds of recipes into eight miniseasons of ingredient availability, beginning with early winter and ending with late fall (“the final forage”). Thus, the first chapter features warm spinach salad with clementines, goat cheese, and pickled shallots, while late-spring recipes include crunchy garden radishes with malt aioli, tamari, and micro herbs. That 'final forage' includes a zesty apple chutney along with cider-braised pork osso buco. Mallett is one fine writer, both in relating Black Trumpet’s story and guiding philosophy and in laying out his recipes, which are concise but so thoroughly and solicitously explained that even the timid home chef should be inspired to give them a try. With appeal and relevance extending beyond New England, this is a winner, every which way.”

“Evan Mallett stealthily and humbly creates our regional culinary identity. His dishes honor our seasonal ingredients, but also give us a sense of adventure in exciting flavors and traditions from Morocco, Mexico, and India. This is the new, true New England cuisine. I’ll make these delicious dishes season by season, but there are beautiful stories here, too, about farmers and fishermen, family and loyal staff—all part of the bigger story behind Evan’s dedication to our Good Food Revolution.”--Rachel Forrest, food writer and restaurant critic

“The only complaint I've ever had about Evan Mallett's acclaimed Black Trumpet restaurant is that it's too far from where I live for me to dine there as often as I'd like. With this book, I'm finally able to enjoy Mallett's imaginative, seasonal, and ultra-tasty food at home any time the urge hits—and it will hit often.”--Barry Estabrook, author of Pig Tales: An Omivore’s Quest for Sustainable Meat

“A wonderful culinary tour, both through the seasons and through an endlessly inventive and particularly New England kind of sense and sensibility.”--Paul Greenberg, author of Four Fish and American Catch

“Evan Mallett is a well-respected food hero who lives and cooks in an edge of North America known more for its trying climate than for its bounty: harsh winters, short seasons, thrifty New England ways. And perhaps it is that very element that makes Black Trumpet so inspiring: the creative use of what’s available in a part of the world where land meets sea; where eaters are only beginning to learn how best to orient their passion for the familiar with the wild offerings of the seasons.

“Evan’s book is both a fascinating read and marvelously useful: Beautifully adorned with Enna Grazier’s photographs, Black Trumpet serves as an inspiration and resource for the home cook who seeks practical tools for entertaining. While Evan’s commitment to sustainability and cultivating leadership in the food community via Chefs Collaborative and Slow Food makes him a chef’s chef, this book illustrates how, more than anything, Evan is a teacher and guide for cooks who create in their home kitchens."--Richard McCarthy, executive director, Slow Food USA

“Rare is the book that can both deepen your appreciation of tradition and open your mind to innovation, yet Black Trumpet seems to accomplish this on nearly every page. You think it’s all been done, and then Evan Mallett shows you it hasn’t. In a region swimming with farm-to-table chefs, Mallett has managed to break free and create something truly new—an original cuisine that tells the story of modern coastal New England in words, images, and an extraordinary palette of flavors.”--Rowan Jacobsen, author of American Terroir and The Essential Oyster

“From the very first chapter, I was captured by Evan’s knowledge of stocks, dressings, aioli, butters that have been browned, and all the necessary beginnings for the magical dishes this wonderful cook has fashioned. All through the book, from one season to the next, I was profoundly impressed by Evan’s understanding of ingredients that bring more than one taste to your delighted mouth.

“There are three classic books for cooking: The Joy of Cooking, Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and The New York Times Cookbook. You only need to add one other now—Evan Mallett’s Black Trumpet.”--James Haller, founding chef and owner, Blue Strawbery; author of Salt & Pepper Cooking

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Evan Mallett

Chef Evan Mallett’s path to professional cooking was a sinuous one, wending its way from Washington, D.C. up the coast to Boston and ultimately the small seaport city of Portsmouth, New Hampshire.  In 2007 Evan and his wife Denise bought what would become the Black Trumpet, becoming stewards of an historic restaurant location—an old ship’s chandlery that in 1970 first opened as the legendary Blue Strawbery, a pioneer of New American cuisine. Evan is a three-time James Beard semi-finalist for Best Chef, Northeast. He is actively involved and sits on the boards of Chef's Collaborative, Slow Food Seacoast, and the Heirloom Harvest Project, an initiative that brings together farmers, chefs, and educators to identify and restore a food system native to the greater New England Seacoast region.

AUTHOR VIDEOS

About Evan Mallett

A Chef, a business owner, an entrepreneur, a writer, and a biodiversity activist are just some of the things that describe Evan

Chefs Collaborative Cookbook: Evan Mallett - Black Trumpet

Chef Evan Mallett of Black Trumpet in Portsmouth, NH discusses his recipe for the Chefs Collaborative Cookbook.

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE

Wild Fermentation

Wild Fermentation

By Sandor Ellix Katz

The Book That Started the Fermentation Revolution

Sandor Ellix Katz, winner of a James Beard Award and New York Times bestselling author, whom Michael Pollan calls the “Johnny Appleseed of Fermentation” returns to the iconic book that started it all, but with a fresh perspective, renewed enthusiasm, and expanded wisdom from his travels around the world. This self-described fermentation revivalist is perhaps best known simply as Sandorkraut, which describes his joyful and demystifying approach to making and eating fermented foods, the health benefits of which have helped launch a nutrition-based food revolution.

Since its publication in 2003, and aided by Katz’s engaging and fervent workshop presentations, Wild Fermentation has inspired people to turn their kitchens into food labs: fermenting vegetables into sauerkraut, milk into cheese or yogurt, grains into sourdough bread, and much more. In turn, they’ve traded batches, shared recipes, and joined thousands of others on a journey of creating healthy food for themselves, their families, and their communities. Katz’s work earned him the Craig Clairborne lifetime achievement award from the Southern Foodways Alliance, and has been called “one of the unlikely rock stars of the American food scene” by The New York Times.

This updated and revised edition, now with full color photos throughout, is sure to introduce a whole new generation to the flavors and health benefits of fermented foods. It features many brand-new recipes—including Strawberry Kvass, African Sorghum Beer, and Infinite Buckwheat Bread—and updates and refines original recipes reflecting the author’s ever-deepening knowledge of global food traditions that has influenced four-star chefs and home cooks alike. For Katz, his gateway to fermentation was sauerkraut. So open this book to find yours, and start a little food revolution right in your own kitchen.

Praise for Sandor Ellix Katz and his books:

The Art of Fermentation is an extraordinary book, and an impressive work of passion and scholarship.”—Deborah Madison, author of Local Flavors

“Sandor Katz has proven himself to be the king of fermentation.”—Sally Fallon Morell, President, The Weston A. Price Foundation

“Sandor Katz has already awakened more people to the diversity and deliciousness of fermented foods than any other single person has over the last century.”—Gary Paul Nabhan, author of Growing Food in a Hotter, Drier Land

“The fermenting bible.” — Newsweek

“In a country almost clinically obsessed with sterilization Katz reminds us of the forgotten benefits of living in harmony with our microbial relatives.” — Grist

Available in: Paperback

Read More

Wild Fermentation

Sandor Ellix Katz, Sally Fallon Morell

Paperback $29.95

Home Baked

Home Baked

By Hanne Risgaard

Recipes and techniques for baking artisan bread using organic stone-milled flour, organic yeasts, sourdoughs, and more from renowned Danish organic farm and family-owned mill, Skærtoft Mølle-literally translated as "Cut-Road Mill"-situated on Als, an idyllic island in the southeast of Denmark.

Hanne Risgaard offers recipes for unique bread and pastry that bring a Nordic approach to bread baking that feels worlds away from most conventional baking books. At Skærtoft, there is a belief in organic, small-scale-produced whole grains, traditional stone-ground milling techniques, use of wild fermented sourdough, organic yeast, and attention to terroir. Their farm produces some of the highest-quality, nutrient-rich grain available. In fact, Copenhagen's celebrated restaurant NOMA, recently accorded a "World's Best Restaurant" award, uses Skærtoft Mølle products. Indeed, the growing movement of Nordic cuisine centers on its devotion to high-quality regional produce, the creativity of the chef, and a sound awareness of the workings of nature. This set of principles also serves to guide Hanne Risgaard in Home Baked.

Risgaard offers practical information not only on the concepts and processes behind creating delicious Scandinavian breads, but also concise growing and cultivation information about the grains themselves, as well as a guide to basic equipment and kitchen set-up, ingredients, and the history of Skærtoft and their philosophy. At the beginning of each recipe there is a brief story contextualizing where the recipe comes from. Their world comes alive!

Home Baked includes detailed sections on: baking with yeast; sourdoughs; baking without a raising agent (pies, cakes, cookies, crackers); and covers grains such as wheat, spelt, barley, and rye. The breads include unique ingredients like foraged herbs and greens, such as the Cocotte with Ramsons (either put directly in the bread dough or preserved in a syrup of pearls of rye and sea buckthorn berries); as well as other interesting standouts like the Buns for Tilters (with apple and yogurt, prepared for the annual horse games), Green Knots (made with stinging nettle, in honor of the fight to save the nettle in France), Rosemary Sourdough, Elderflower Muffins, and more.Perfectly timed for the growing interest in Scandinavian, and particularly Danish, cuisine, Home Baked is a must-have for the bread lover's library.

Available in: Hardcover

Read More

Home Baked

Hanne Risgaard, Jeffrey Hamelman, Marie-Louise Risgaard

Hardcover $39.95

Eat Mesquite and More

Eat Mesquite and More

By Desert Harvesters

Eat Mesquite and More celebrates native food forests of the Sonoran Desert and beyond with over 170 recipes featuring wild, indigenous foods, including mesquite, acorn, barrel cactus, chiltepin, cholla, desert chia, desert herbs and flowers, desert ironwood, hackberry, palo verde, prickly pear, saguaro, wolfberry, and wild greens. The recipes—contributed by desert dwellers, harvesters, chefs, and innovators—capture a spirit of adventure and reverence inviting both newcomers and seasoned experts to try new foods and experiment with new flavors.

More than a cookbook, this guide also encourages a renaissance of “wild agriculture,” one that foregrounds the ethical harvesting and selection of wild foods and the re-planting of native food sources in urban and residential areas without imported water or fertilizers. It contains stories of significant individuals, organizations, and businesses that have contributed knowledge, products, and innovation in the planting, harvesting, and use of wild, native desert foods. Additional essays reveal the poetry of the foraging life, how to plant the rain, and medicinal uses and ethnobotanical histories of desert plants.

Many of the food plants included in this cookbook—or close relatives of them—can be found or grown in the other deserts and drylands of North America and South America. As such, this book becomes a template for harvesting and cooking throughout the Americas. Universally, its concepts and approach can help communities everywhere collaborate with their ecosystem, while enhancing the health of all.

Available in: Paperback

Read More

Eat Mesquite and More

Desert Harvesters

Paperback $34.95

Scientists under Attack

Scientists under Attack

By Bertram Verhaag

When scientist Arpad Pusztai reported that genetically modified (GM) foods caused serious health problems in rats, he was a hero at his prestigious UK institute -- for two days. But after two phone calls (apparently) from the Prime Minister's office, he was fired, gagged, and mercilessly attacked. When UC Berkely professor Ignacio Chapela discovered GM corn contamination in Mexico, he too faced a firestorm of distortion and denial that left him struggling to salvage his career. Find out how the biotech industry "engineers" the truth and what they are trying to hide from you. By Bertram Verhaag, with bonus film: Monster Salmon.

Available in: DVD

Read More

Scientists under Attack

Bertram Verhaag

DVD $19.95