Chelsea Green Publishing

Black Trumpet

Pages:400 pages
Book Art:Color photos throughout
Size: 8 x 10 inch
Publisher:Chelsea Green Publishing
Hardcover: 9781603586504
Pub. Date October 12, 2016

Black Trumpet

A Chef’s Journey Through Eight New England Seasons

Categories:
Food & Drink

Availability: In Stock

Hardcover

Available Date:
October 12, 2016

$40.00

Featuring more than 250 innovative recipes that respect and transcend regional food traditions.

The basis of great cooking has always been the creative use of fresh, seasonal ingredients – whether the kitchen is at home or in a high-end restaurant.

At the renowned Black Trumpet restaurant, located in the historic seacoast city of Portsmouth, New Hampshire, Chef Evan Mallett and his staff reflect the constantly changing seasons of New England, celebrating the unique flavors and traditions of fished, farmed, and foraged foods in their ever-changing menus that rotate roughly every six weeks throughout the course of the year.

From deep winter’s comfort dishes to the first run of maple syrup during Mud Season; from the first flush of greens in early spring to the embarrassment of high summer’s bounty and fall’s final harvest—Evan Mallett offers more than 250 innovative recipes that draw not only on classic regional foodways, but on the author’s personal experiences with Mexican, Mediterranean, and other classic world cuisines. Recipes include inspired and delicious dishes such as:

  • Quail Adobado with Quince Hash;
  • Scallops with Couscous and Cider Cream;
  • Lobster and Kelp Tamales; and
  • Cauliflower and Chickpea Fritter with Curried Spinach Puree; as well as a wide range of soups, salads, starters, condiments, desserts, and cocktails.

Black Trumpet not only tells the story of a great restaurant—how the Black Trumpet became nationally famous as a model for local food sourcing and community involvement—but it also traces the growth and evolution of the local food movement. In some ways, it can be viewed as a how-to manual for building a community around good food, featuring not only creative and delicious recipes, but autobiographical vignettes, and sidebars containing technical how-to information, profiles, anecdotes, and essays.

In this cookbook, the trappings of technology are eschewed, and the bare-bones essentials of extracting flavor and combining both commonplace and unusual ingredients take center stage. Genuine flavor and hospitality are what set Black Trumpet apart, and this cookbook will reflect those special qualities and inspire a new generation of adventurous American cooks.

REVIEWS AND PRAISE

Shelf Awareness-

"Gourmet cooks with a passion for New England's seafood--as well as culinary memoir--will savor Black Trumpet, Chef Evan Mallett's debut collection of 250 decadent dishes created and served at his family-owned bistro and wine bar of the cookbook's name. Featuring locally sourced ingredients from Black Trumpet's setting in the seaport town of Portsmouth, N.H., Mallett's creative fare is precisely synced with New England's "eight seasons": Early Winter, Late Winter, Early Spring, Late Spring, Early Summer, Late Summer, Early Fall and Late Fall. Black Trumpet features Mallett's personal stories of becoming a chef, his passion for fresh, seasonal food and his recollections of the restaurant's compelling history in the seaport community that is both tourist destination and home.”

“With this book, I feel as if I’m right in the restaurant being happily taken care of by a devoted staff while Chef Evan whips up something delicious, local, sustainable, seasonable, with a touch of the exotic—all the things I need to delight my palate.”--Nancy Harmon Jenkins, author of The Four Seasons of Pasta

Publishers Weekly-

"Mallett and his crew weren’t quite sure who they wanted to be when they opened Black Trumpet in Portsmouth, N.H., in the spring of 2007. Today, they’re the embodiment of the locally sourced movement, working with local farmers to craft terrific cuisine that speaks to the region and its history. Mallett shares over 250 recipes that make the most of New England’s offerings, including chestnut butter and fig jam finger sandwiches, cider-braised pork osso bucco, and pork schnitzel with pretzel spätzle. The must-try snacks include pan-fried smelts with Meyer lemon and caper aioli, ceviche with pico de gallo, and the beautifully simple Chile Pasta, a from-scratch pasta dough that incorporates a trio of chilies to add smoke and warmth. The majority of the book’s dishes are probably best ordered at the restaurant itself: potted fava bean pâté with rhubarb gelée, saffron pickled quail egg with serrano ham and aioli in a phyllo nest, and fried rabbit loin with cheesy polenta pudding and rhubarb salsa call for more time than readers may have for dinner. Still, readers [are] sure to find some great ideas and techniques.”

Booklist-

"Portsmouth, New Hampshire’s Black Trumpet is, according to one Boston Globe review, 'the kind of place where diners are apt to travel farther to get there than the ingredients do' Which speaks well of owner-chef Mallett’s mantra of sustainability and the quality of food his kitchen produces. Mallett arranges these hundreds of recipes into eight miniseasons of ingredient availability, beginning with early winter and ending with late fall (“the final forage”). Thus, the first chapter features warm spinach salad with clementines, goat cheese, and pickled shallots, while late-spring recipes include crunchy garden radishes with malt aioli, tamari, and micro herbs. That 'final forage' includes a zesty apple chutney along with cider-braised pork osso buco. Mallett is one fine writer, both in relating Black Trumpet’s story and guiding philosophy and in laying out his recipes, which are concise but so thoroughly and solicitously explained that even the timid home chef should be inspired to give them a try. With appeal and relevance extending beyond New England, this is a winner, every which way.”

“Evan Mallett stealthily and humbly creates our regional culinary identity. His dishes honor our seasonal ingredients, but also give us a sense of adventure in exciting flavors and traditions from Morocco, Mexico, and India. This is the new, true New England cuisine. I’ll make these delicious dishes season by season, but there are beautiful stories here, too, about farmers and fishermen, family and loyal staff—all part of the bigger story behind Evan’s dedication to our Good Food Revolution.”--Rachel Forrest, food writer and restaurant critic

“The only complaint I've ever had about Evan Mallett's acclaimed Black Trumpet restaurant is that it's too far from where I live for me to dine there as often as I'd like. With this book, I'm finally able to enjoy Mallett's imaginative, seasonal, and ultra-tasty food at home any time the urge hits—and it will hit often.”--Barry Estabrook, author of Pig Tales: An Omivore’s Quest for Sustainable Meat

“A wonderful culinary tour, both through the seasons and through an endlessly inventive and particularly New England kind of sense and sensibility.”--Paul Greenberg, author of Four Fish and American Catch

“Evan Mallett is a well-respected food hero who lives and cooks in an edge of North America known more for its trying climate than for its bounty: harsh winters, short seasons, thrifty New England ways. And perhaps it is that very element that makes Black Trumpet so inspiring: the creative use of what’s available in a part of the world where land meets sea; where eaters are only beginning to learn how best to orient their passion for the familiar with the wild offerings of the seasons.

“Evan’s book is both a fascinating read and marvelously useful: Beautifully adorned with Enna Grazier’s photographs, Black Trumpet serves as an inspiration and resource for the home cook who seeks practical tools for entertaining. While Evan’s commitment to sustainability and cultivating leadership in the food community via Chefs Collaborative and Slow Food makes him a chef’s chef, this book illustrates how, more than anything, Evan is a teacher and guide for cooks who create in their home kitchens."--Richard McCarthy, executive director, Slow Food USA

“Rare is the book that can both deepen your appreciation of tradition and open your mind to innovation, yet Black Trumpet seems to accomplish this on nearly every page. You think it’s all been done, and then Evan Mallett shows you it hasn’t. In a region swimming with farm-to-table chefs, Mallett has managed to break free and create something truly new—an original cuisine that tells the story of modern coastal New England in words, images, and an extraordinary palette of flavors.”--Rowan Jacobsen, author of American Terroir and The Essential Oyster

“From the very first chapter, I was captured by Evan’s knowledge of stocks, dressings, aioli, butters that have been browned, and all the necessary beginnings for the magical dishes this wonderful cook has fashioned. All through the book, from one season to the next, I was profoundly impressed by Evan’s understanding of ingredients that bring more than one taste to your delighted mouth.

“There are three classic books for cooking: The Joy of Cooking, Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and The New York Times Cookbook. You only need to add one other now—Evan Mallett’s Black Trumpet.”--James Haller, founding chef and owner, Blue Strawbery; author of Salt & Pepper Cooking

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Evan Mallett

Chef Evan Mallett’s path to professional cooking was a sinuous one, wending its way from Washington, D.C. up the coast to Boston and ultimately the small seaport city of Portsmouth, New Hampshire.  In 2007 Evan and his wife Denise bought what would become the Black Trumpet, becoming stewards of an historic restaurant location—an old ship’s chandlery that in 1970 first opened as the legendary Blue Strawbery, a pioneer of New American cuisine. Evan is a three-time James Beard semi-finalist for Best Chef, Northeast. He is actively involved and sits on the boards of Chef's Collaborative, Slow Food Seacoast, and the Heirloom Harvest Project, an initiative that brings together farmers, chefs, and educators to identify and restore a food system native to the greater New England Seacoast region.

AUTHOR VIDEOS

About Evan Mallett

A Chef, a business owner, an entrepreneur, a writer, and a biodiversity activist are just some of the things that describe Evan

Chefs Collaborative Cookbook: Evan Mallett - Black Trumpet

Chef Evan Mallett of Black Trumpet in Portsmouth, NH discusses his recipe for the Chefs Collaborative Cookbook.

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE

The Book of Pears

The Book of Pears

By Joan Morgan

Although apples may have won the battle for modern-day supermarket shelf space, throughout history the pear has usually ranked even higher in the hearts of fruit enthusiasts and connoisseurs. Cherries, plums, peaches, and many other fruits are also wonderful in their season, but the pear at its finest can be so much more exceptional in terms of its luscious texture, richness of taste, and its fragrances reminiscent of rose water, musk, and vanilla.

The Book of Pears is a one-of-a-kind guide to this extraordinary fruit, following its journey through history and around the world, accompanied by beautiful botanical watercolor paintings and period images. Noted pomologist and fruit historian Joan Morgan (The Book of Apples) has researched and crafted the definitive account of the pear’s history and uses, from fresh eating to cooking and baking to making perry, the delicate and sophisticated pear equivalent of cider.

Featuring a directory of 500 varieties of both ancient and modern pears with tasting notes and descriptions for every one, The Book of Pears reveals the secrets of the pear as a status symbol, introduces readers to some of the most celebrated fruit growers in history, and explains how the pear came to be so important as an international commodity. This unique and fascinating book will prove indispensable for historians, horticulturists, and all fruit lovers.

Available in: Hardcover

Read More

The Book of Pears

Joan Morgan

Hardcover $65.00

Cooking Close to Home

Cooking Close to Home

By Diane Imrie and Richard Jarmusz

Cooking Close to Home: A Year of Seasonal Recipes is a collection of over 150 original recipes designed to follow the seasons. Whether you are a home gardener, a farmers' market regular, or a member of a community-supported agriculture program, this cookbook will serve as a seasonal guide to using the foods available in your region. Each recipe includes useful "Harvest Hints" that explain how to find, purchase, prepare, and preserve fresh and seasonal ingredients. Within each chapter you will find information about sustainable food, small family farms, and how to reduce your carbon footprint by buying local foods. There are also appetizing food photographs and inspiring stories of farms, orchards, and farmers' markets throughout the northeast.

Available in: Paperback

Read More

Cooking Close to Home

Diane Imrie, Richard Jarmusz

Paperback $24.95

Taste, Memory

Taste, Memory

By David Buchanan

Taste, Memory traces the experiences of modern-day explorers who rediscover culturally rich forgotten foods and return them to our tables for all to experience and savor.

In Taste, Memory author David Buchanan explores questions fundamental to the future of food and farming. How can we strike a balance between preserving the past, maintaining valuable agricultural and culinary traditions, and looking ahead to breed new plants? What place does a cantankerous old pear or too-delicate strawberry deserve in our gardens, farms, and markets? To what extent should growers value efficiency and uniformity over matters of taste, ecology, or regional identity?

While living in Washington State in the early nineties, Buchanan learned about the heritage food movement and began growing fruit trees, grains, and vegetables. After moving home to New England, however, he left behind his plant collection and for several years stopped gardening. In 2005, inspired by the revival of interest in regional food and culinary traditions, Buchanan borrowed a few rows of growing space at a farm near his home in Portland, Maine, where he resumed collecting. By 2012 he had expanded to two acres, started a nursery and small business, and discovered creative ways to preserve rare foods. In Taste, Memory Buchanan shares stories of slightly obsessive urban gardeners, preservationists, environmentalists, farmers, and passionate cooks, and weaves anecdotes of his personal journey with profiles of leaders in the movement to defend agricultural biodiversity.

Taste, Memory begins and ends with a simple premise: that a healthy food system depends on matching diverse plants and animals to the demands of land and climate. In this sense of place lies the true meaning of local food.

Available in: Paperback

Read More

Taste, Memory

David Buchanan, Gary Paul Nabhan

Paperback $17.95

American Farmstead Cheese

American Farmstead Cheese

By Paul Kindstedt

This comprehensive guide to farmstead cheese explains the diversity of cheeses in terms of historical animal husbandry, pastures, climate, preservation, and transport-all of which still contribute to the uniqueness of farm cheeses today.
Discover the composition of milk (and its seasonal variations), starter cultures, and the chemistry of cheese. The book includes:

  • A fully illustrated guide to basic cheesemaking
  • Discussions on the effects of calcium, pH, salt, and moisture on the process
  • Ways to ensure safety and quality through sampling and risk reduction
  • Methods for analyzing the resulting composition

You will meet artisan cheesemaker Peter Dixon, who will remind you of the creative spirit of nature as he shares his own process for cheesemaking. Alison Hooper, cofounder of Vermont Butter & Cheese Company, shares her experience-both the mistakes and the successes-to guide you in your own business adventure with cheese. David and Cindy Major, owners of Vermont Shepherd, a sheep dairy and cheese business, tell the story of their farm and business from rocky beginning to successful end.

Available in: Paperback

Read More

American Farmstead Cheese

Paul Kindstedt

Paperback $40.00