Chelsea Green Publishing

Black Trumpet

Pages:400 pages
Book Art:Color photos throughout
Size: 8 x 10 inch
Publisher:Chelsea Green Publishing
Hardcover: 9781603586504
Pub. Date October 12, 2016

Black Trumpet

A Chef’s Journey Through Eight New England Seasons

Categories:
Food & Drink

Availability: In Stock

Hardcover

Available Date:
October 12, 2016

$40.00

Featuring more than 250 innovative recipes that respect and transcend regional food traditions.

The basis of great cooking has always been the creative use of fresh, seasonal ingredients – whether the kitchen is at home or in a high-end restaurant.

At the renowned Black Trumpet restaurant, located in the historic seacoast city of Portsmouth, New Hampshire, Chef Evan Mallett and his staff reflect the constantly changing seasons of New England, celebrating the unique flavors and traditions of fished, farmed, and foraged foods in their ever-changing menus that rotate roughly every six weeks throughout the course of the year.

From deep winter’s comfort dishes to the first run of maple syrup during Mud Season; from the first flush of greens in early spring to the embarrassment of high summer’s bounty and fall’s final harvest—Evan Mallett offers more than 250 innovative recipes that draw not only on classic regional foodways, but on the author’s personal experiences with Mexican, Mediterranean, and other classic world cuisines. Recipes include inspired and delicious dishes such as:

  • Quail Adobado with Quince Hash;
  • Scallops with Couscous and Cider Cream;
  • Lobster and Kelp Tamales; and
  • Cauliflower and Chickpea Fritter with Curried Spinach Puree; as well as a wide range of soups, salads, starters, condiments, desserts, and cocktails.

Black Trumpet not only tells the story of a great restaurant—how the Black Trumpet became nationally famous as a model for local food sourcing and community involvement—but it also traces the growth and evolution of the local food movement. In some ways, it can be viewed as a how-to manual for building a community around good food, featuring not only creative and delicious recipes, but autobiographical vignettes, and sidebars containing technical how-to information, profiles, anecdotes, and essays.

In this cookbook, the trappings of technology are eschewed, and the bare-bones essentials of extracting flavor and combining both commonplace and unusual ingredients take center stage. Genuine flavor and hospitality are what set Black Trumpet apart, and this cookbook will reflect those special qualities and inspire a new generation of adventurous American cooks.

REVIEWS AND PRAISE

Shelf Awareness-

"Gourmet cooks with a passion for New England's seafood--as well as culinary memoir--will savor Black Trumpet, Chef Evan Mallett's debut collection of 250 decadent dishes created and served at his family-owned bistro and wine bar of the cookbook's name. Featuring locally sourced ingredients from Black Trumpet's setting in the seaport town of Portsmouth, N.H., Mallett's creative fare is precisely synced with New England's "eight seasons": Early Winter, Late Winter, Early Spring, Late Spring, Early Summer, Late Summer, Early Fall and Late Fall. Black Trumpet features Mallett's personal stories of becoming a chef, his passion for fresh, seasonal food and his recollections of the restaurant's compelling history in the seaport community that is both tourist destination and home.”

“With this book, I feel as if I’m right in the restaurant being happily taken care of by a devoted staff while Chef Evan whips up something delicious, local, sustainable, seasonable, with a touch of the exotic—all the things I need to delight my palate.”--Nancy Harmon Jenkins, author of The Four Seasons of Pasta

Publishers Weekly-

"Mallett and his crew weren’t quite sure who they wanted to be when they opened Black Trumpet in Portsmouth, N.H., in the spring of 2007. Today, they’re the embodiment of the locally sourced movement, working with local farmers to craft terrific cuisine that speaks to the region and its history. Mallett shares over 250 recipes that make the most of New England’s offerings, including chestnut butter and fig jam finger sandwiches, cider-braised pork osso bucco, and pork schnitzel with pretzel spätzle. The must-try snacks include pan-fried smelts with Meyer lemon and caper aioli, ceviche with pico de gallo, and the beautifully simple Chile Pasta, a from-scratch pasta dough that incorporates a trio of chilies to add smoke and warmth. The majority of the book’s dishes are probably best ordered at the restaurant itself: potted fava bean pâté with rhubarb gelée, saffron pickled quail egg with serrano ham and aioli in a phyllo nest, and fried rabbit loin with cheesy polenta pudding and rhubarb salsa call for more time than readers may have for dinner. Still, readers [are] sure to find some great ideas and techniques.”

Booklist-

"Portsmouth, New Hampshire’s Black Trumpet is, according to one Boston Globe review, 'the kind of place where diners are apt to travel farther to get there than the ingredients do' Which speaks well of owner-chef Mallett’s mantra of sustainability and the quality of food his kitchen produces. Mallett arranges these hundreds of recipes into eight miniseasons of ingredient availability, beginning with early winter and ending with late fall (“the final forage”). Thus, the first chapter features warm spinach salad with clementines, goat cheese, and pickled shallots, while late-spring recipes include crunchy garden radishes with malt aioli, tamari, and micro herbs. That 'final forage' includes a zesty apple chutney along with cider-braised pork osso buco. Mallett is one fine writer, both in relating Black Trumpet’s story and guiding philosophy and in laying out his recipes, which are concise but so thoroughly and solicitously explained that even the timid home chef should be inspired to give them a try. With appeal and relevance extending beyond New England, this is a winner, every which way.”

“Evan Mallett stealthily and humbly creates our regional culinary identity. His dishes honor our seasonal ingredients, but also give us a sense of adventure in exciting flavors and traditions from Morocco, Mexico, and India. This is the new, true New England cuisine. I’ll make these delicious dishes season by season, but there are beautiful stories here, too, about farmers and fishermen, family and loyal staff—all part of the bigger story behind Evan’s dedication to our Good Food Revolution.”--Rachel Forrest, food writer and restaurant critic

“The only complaint I've ever had about Evan Mallett's acclaimed Black Trumpet restaurant is that it's too far from where I live for me to dine there as often as I'd like. With this book, I'm finally able to enjoy Mallett's imaginative, seasonal, and ultra-tasty food at home any time the urge hits—and it will hit often.”--Barry Estabrook, author of Pig Tales: An Omivore’s Quest for Sustainable Meat

“A wonderful culinary tour, both through the seasons and through an endlessly inventive and particularly New England kind of sense and sensibility.”--Paul Greenberg, author of Four Fish and American Catch

“Evan Mallett is a well-respected food hero who lives and cooks in an edge of North America known more for its trying climate than for its bounty: harsh winters, short seasons, thrifty New England ways. And perhaps it is that very element that makes Black Trumpet so inspiring: the creative use of what’s available in a part of the world where land meets sea; where eaters are only beginning to learn how best to orient their passion for the familiar with the wild offerings of the seasons.

“Evan’s book is both a fascinating read and marvelously useful: Beautifully adorned with Enna Grazier’s photographs, Black Trumpet serves as an inspiration and resource for the home cook who seeks practical tools for entertaining. While Evan’s commitment to sustainability and cultivating leadership in the food community via Chefs Collaborative and Slow Food makes him a chef’s chef, this book illustrates how, more than anything, Evan is a teacher and guide for cooks who create in their home kitchens."--Richard McCarthy, executive director, Slow Food USA

“Rare is the book that can both deepen your appreciation of tradition and open your mind to innovation, yet Black Trumpet seems to accomplish this on nearly every page. You think it’s all been done, and then Evan Mallett shows you it hasn’t. In a region swimming with farm-to-table chefs, Mallett has managed to break free and create something truly new—an original cuisine that tells the story of modern coastal New England in words, images, and an extraordinary palette of flavors.”--Rowan Jacobsen, author of American Terroir and The Essential Oyster

“From the very first chapter, I was captured by Evan’s knowledge of stocks, dressings, aioli, butters that have been browned, and all the necessary beginnings for the magical dishes this wonderful cook has fashioned. All through the book, from one season to the next, I was profoundly impressed by Evan’s understanding of ingredients that bring more than one taste to your delighted mouth.

“There are three classic books for cooking: The Joy of Cooking, Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and The New York Times Cookbook. You only need to add one other now—Evan Mallett’s Black Trumpet.”--James Haller, founding chef and owner, Blue Strawbery; author of Salt & Pepper Cooking

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Evan Mallett

Chef Evan Mallett’s path to professional cooking was a sinuous one, wending its way from Washington, D.C. up the coast to Boston and ultimately the small seaport city of Portsmouth, New Hampshire.  In 2007 Evan and his wife Denise bought what would become the Black Trumpet, becoming stewards of an historic restaurant location—an old ship’s chandlery that in 1970 first opened as the legendary Blue Strawbery, a pioneer of New American cuisine. Evan is a three-time James Beard semi-finalist for Best Chef, Northeast. He is actively involved and sits on the boards of Chef's Collaborative, Slow Food Seacoast, and the Heirloom Harvest Project, an initiative that brings together farmers, chefs, and educators to identify and restore a food system native to the greater New England Seacoast region.

AUTHOR VIDEOS

About Evan Mallett

A Chef, a business owner, an entrepreneur, a writer, and a biodiversity activist are just some of the things that describe Evan

Chefs Collaborative Cookbook: Evan Mallett - Black Trumpet

Chef Evan Mallett of Black Trumpet in Portsmouth, NH discusses his recipe for the Chefs Collaborative Cookbook.

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE

Keeping a Family Cow

Keeping a Family Cow

By Joann S. Grohman

The cow is the most productive, efficient creature on earth. She will give you fresh milk, cream, butter, and cheese, build human health and happiness, and even turn a profit for homesteaders and small farmers who seek to offer her bounty to the local market or neighborhood. She will provide rich manure for your garden or land, and will enrich the quality of your life as you benefit from the resources of the natural world. Quite simply, the family that keeps a cow is a healthy family.

Originally published in the early 1970s as The Cow Economy and reprinted many times over, Keeping a Family Cow has launched thousands of holistic small-scale dairy farmers and families raising healthy cows in accordance with their true nature. The book offers answers to frequently asked questions like, 'Should I get a cow?' and 'How Much Space do I need?' in addition to extensive information on:

•    The health benefits of untreated milk;
•    How to milk a cow effectively and with ease;
•    Choosing your dairy breed;
•    Drying off your cow;
•    Details on calving and breeding;
•    The importance of hay quality and how to properly feed your cow;
•    Fencing and pasture management;
•    Housing, water systems, and other supplies;
•    Treating milk fever and other diseases and disorders;
•    Making butter, yogurt, and cheese, and, of course . . .
•    . . . Everything else the conventional dairy industry doesn’t tell us!

Now revised and updated to incorporate new information on the raw milk debate, the conversation about A1 vs. A2 milk, fully grassfed dairies, more practical advice for everyday chores, and updated procedures for cow emergencies.

Keeping a Family Cow has not only stood the test of time, it still remains the go-to inspirational manual for raising a family milk cow nearly forty years after its first publication. Joann Grohman has a lifetime of practical experience that has been bound into this one volume and presented in the spirit of fun and learning.

Available in: Paperback

Read More

Keeping a Family Cow

Joann S. Grohman

Paperback $19.95

Farm to Table

Farm to Table

By Darryl Benjamin and Lyndon Virkler

With information on purchasing, marketing, and employing farm-to-table principles in restaurants, schools, hospitals, and other institutions

Nearly a century ago, the idea of “local food” would have seemed perplexing, since virtually all food was local. Food for daily consumption—fruits, vegetables, grains, meat, and dairy products—was grown at home or sourced from local farms. Today, most of the food consumed in the United States and, increasingly, around the globe, is sourced from industrial farms and concentrated animal feeding operations (CAFOs), which power a food system rife with environmental, economic, and health-related problems.

The tide, however, is slowly but steadily turning back in what has been broadly termed the “farm-to-table” movement. In Farm to Table, Darryl Benjamin and Chef Lyndon Virkler explore how the farm-to-table philosophy is pushing back modern, industrialized food production and moving beyond isolated “locavore” movements into a broad and far-reaching coalition of farmers, chefs, consumers, policy advocates, teachers, institutional buyers, and many more all working to restore healthful, sustainable, and affordable food for everyone.

Divided into two distinct but complementary halves, “Farm” and “Table,” Farm to Table first examines the roots of our contemporary industrial food system, from the technological advances that presaged the “Green Revolution” to U.S. Secretary of Agriculture Earl Butz’s infamous dictum to farmers to “Get big or get out” in the 1970s. Readers will explore the many threats to ecology and human health that our corporatized food system poses, but also the many alternatives—from permaculture to rotation-intensive grazing—that small farmers are now adopting to meet growing consumer demand. The second half of the book is dedicated to illuminating best practices and strategies for schools, restaurants, healthcare facilities, and other business and institutions to partner with local farmers and food producers, from purchasing to marketing.

No longer restricted to the elite segments of society, the farm-to-table movement now reaches a wide spectrum of Americans from all economic strata and in a number of settings, from hospital and office cafeterias, to elementary schools and fast-casual restaurants. Farm to Table is a one-of-a-kind resource on how to integrate sustainable principles into each of these settings and facilitate intelligent, healthful food choices at every juncture as our food system evolves. While borrowing from the best ideas of the past, the lessons herein are designed to help contribute to a healthier, more sustainable, and more equitable tomorrow.

Available in: Hardcover

Read More

Farm to Table

Darryl Benjamin, Lyndon Virkler

Hardcover $49.95

The Gourmet Butcher's Guide to Meat

The Gourmet Butcher's Guide to Meat

By Cole Ward and Karen Coshof

Vermont-based master butcher Cole Ward delivers a comprehensive guide to whole-animal butchery that goes beyond conventional “do-it-yourself” books and takes readers inside the world of truly sustainable meat production. The Gourmet Butcher's Guide to Meat demystifies the process of getting meat to the table, and its wide scope will be welcome to those who not only wish to learn the rudiments of butchery, but also want to understand how meat animals are raised, slaughtered, and marketed in a holistic system that honors both animals and consumers.

Written in Cole’s unique voice of humor and simplicity, the book celebrates the traditional art of culinary butchery, introducing readers to stand-out butchers in America and Europe as well as a diverse group of farmers committed to raising the very best animals with respect.

The many methods of raising and finishing meat animals are clearly and thoroughly explained and compared, and sensitive issues like hormone and antibiotic use in meat production are assessed. Readers will learn all the terminology associated with meat and butchery, as well as the complexities of meat grading, carcass yield, marbling scores, and issues with inspection.

Also included are recipes, a detailed glossary, and more information on:

•    The real definition, work, and role of a culinary butcher;
•    The history and tradition of butchery;
•    Meat: selecting your breed, grading and aging, tenderness, storing; and reheating;
•    How meat gets to the table: farmers, slaughtering methods, stress, and animal welfare, the role of meat inspectors, cut sheets, what’s legally allowed/not allowed when purchasing meat for further processing, keeping integrity in the local meat movement;
•    Understanding the commercial meat food chain and recognizing deceptive practices;
•    Processing your own meat: what you’ll need, tools, safety, prep;
•    Beef: domestication, terminology, how cows work, raising methods (grass, grain, etc.), meat-safety issues, hormone growth implants, antibiotics and feed additives, carcass yield and marbling scores, and a partial list of beef breeds;
•    Cutting up a beef forequarter and hindquarter;
•    Pork: domestication, terminology, raising methods, grading and inspection, and a partial list of pork breeds;
•    Cutting up a side of pork;
•    Sheep: domestication, terminology, raising methods, and a partial list of meat breeds;
•    Cutting up a whole lamb;
•    Chicken: domestication, terminology, how to cut up a whole chicken;
•    How to make sausages;
•    Value-added products: what they are and how they can help increase your bottom line;
•    Your own butcher shop: size, equipment, display, marketing;
•    A better way of thinking about meat: a holistic overview and some conclusions.

History buffs will delight in the chapter that traces the roots of butchery from pre-history to modern times, and meat shoppers will welcome Cole’s description of what goes on behind the scenes at meat markets large and small. And, of course, new or aspiring butchers will find a well-illustrated slideshow on CD (included in the back of the book) with over 800 images on cutting up a side of beef, a side of pork, and whole lamb and chicken in more detail than is offered in any other book on the subject. Sure to be the ultimate resource on the subject of gourmet butchery, this book will change the conversation and help bring back a traditional art that is in jeopardy, but increasingly important in the local-food and ecological-agriculture movement.

Available in: Hardcover

Read More

The Gourmet Butcher's Guide to Meat

Cole Ward, Karen Coshof

Hardcover $49.95

The Bread Builders

The Bread Builders

By Alan Scott and Daniel Wing

Creating the perfect loaf of bread--a challenge that has captivated bakers for centuries--is now the rage in the hippest places, from Waitsfield, Vermont, to Point Reyes Station, California. Like the new generation of beer drinkers who consciously seek out distinctive craft-brewed beers, many people find that their palates have been reawakened and re-educated by the taste of locally baked, whole-grain breads. Today's village bakers are finding an important new role--linking tradition with a sophisticated new understanding of natural levens, baking science and oven construction.

Daniel Wing, a lover of all things artisinal, had long enjoyed baking his own sourdough bread. His quest for the perfect loaf began with serious study of the history and chemistry of bread baking, and eventually led to an apprenticeship with Alan Scott, the most influential builder of masonry ovens in America.

Alan and Daniel have teamed up to write this thoughtful, entertaining, and authoritative book that shows you how to bake superb healthful bread and build your own masonry oven. The authors profile more than a dozen small-scale bakers around the U.S. whose practices embody the holistic principles of community-oriented baking based on whole grains and natural leavens.

The Bread Builders will appeal to a broad range of readers, including:

  • Connoisseurs of good bread and good food.
  • Home bakers interested in taking their bread and pizza to the next level of excellence.
  • Passionate bakers who fantasize about making a living by starting their own small bakery.
  • Do-it-yourselfers looking for the next small construction project.
  • Small-scale commercial bakers seeking inspiration, the most up-to-date knowledge about the entire bread-baking process, and a marketing edge.

 

Available in: Paperback

Read More

The Bread Builders

Alan Scott, Daniel Wing

Paperback $35.00